Wednesday, May 29, 2013

How to fix water leaks from pipes


A) Disconnect all power to the spa. Inspect the equipment compartment. If leak is under the pump, this indicates a possible pump seal failure. If leak is detected, replace pump or install new seal, as appropriate.
B) Check all union fittings at hot tub pump and heater.  Unions can even vibrate loose on a brand new spa during shipment, and should be hand tightened if necessary.  If hand tightening is difficult, loosen pump mounting bolts, move components into alignment, then tighten unions and re-tighten pump mounting bolts.  Never use a wrench to tighten spa unions.
C) Next, inspect heater, pressure switch and surrounding components. Replace any defective parts as indicated by leak.  See Heater Testing
D) Inspect all of the valves. Repair or replace if leak is indicated. Knife style valves are sometimes bolted together and contain a gasket between the halves which can fail, particularly upon freezing or with prolonged poor water quality conditions.
Note: Valves on either side of the pump, when present, are installed at the factory as a convenience to service people (so that they do not have to drain the spa water to replace a pump).  In reality, these valves more often do more harm than good, since they are a common source of leaks.  Some hot tub owners choose to remove these valves if they have been a leak problem source.
E) Inspect all pipes, jets and connections for leakage. Repair or replace if indicated.

There is only one product that we have ever found that can reliably and permanently fix many leaky PVC components: Plast-Aid.  This product forms a molecular bond with the plastic which is stronger than the PVC pipe itself.  It is far superior to epoxy compounds.

Leak Detection
One method for locating leaks is to use dye (dark food color) in the water. This method works best if the leak is substantial. Observe location of dye leakage, using flashlight if needed, and proceed with repair.
Another method is to let the water drop (with spa not running) and then observe the water level of the spa when the level ceases to drop. If the water stops dropping at a jet for example, that jet is the likely leak source.

For faster leaks it may help to determine the type of leak: vessel leak (spa shell), suction-side leak (before pump) or pressure leak (after pump). Fill spa and mark the water level with grease pen or crayon, and allow the spa to run for 24 hours. Now mark the new water level to determine how much the water level has dropped. Refill to original mark, and keep system off for 24 hours. Again, note how far the water dropped. If the water dropped the same amount on both tests, this usually indicates a vessel leak (blisters and most surface cracks are usually only cosmetic, and not normally a cause for leaks). If the water dropped more with system running, this indicates a pressure leak. If the water dropped less with system running, this indicates a likely suction leak.
Fixing Leaky Pipe Connections the Easy Way
A common area of hot tub leaks occurs where PVC fittings (couplings, elbows, tees, etc.) connect to spa flex pipe. These repairs used to require cutting out the affected pipe, and replacing the PVC fittings. Our new Clip-on Pipe Leak Seals now make these repairs simple, inexpensive, and very effective. A repair job that previously took an hour or more, can now be completed in a few minutes at a fraction of the cost.

Simply clean and dry the affected area. Apply PVC primer to the Clip-on fitting. Then apply PVC cement to both surfaces, and snap in place while giving a quarter turn. These repair fittings are designed and sized to fit over the flex or rigid PVC pipe and fittings.
Clip-on Leak Seal for 1.5" Plumbing 
Clip-on Leak Seal for 2.0" Plumbing 
PVC Pro Cement Kit (this kit contains PVC cleaner, primer, and spa-grade cement)
Repairing Shell Cracks
Most so-called shell leaks are actually leaks associated with jets or other fittings, not the shell itself.  Today's hot tub shells are cast acrylic which has been vacuum formed and then reinforced on the underside with a thick layer of fiberglass.  It is extremely strong.  Even if the acrylic layer were to crack or blister, a water leak penetrating the fiberglass would be unusual.
Acrylic shell cracks and blister voids can be effectively filled and repaired with Plast-Aid.  This compound can even be colored with acrylic* artist paints (available at any art supply store) to approximate the original color of the spa shell.*do not use oil based colorants
Plast-Aid is a two part product (filler and hardener) that can be formed, sanded, and polished, and is the only effective compound available for permanent acrylic shell repairs that we have found. Unlike epoxy or fiberglass repair products, Plast-Aid forms a molecular bond with the acrylic shell.
Jet Body - Vessel Leaks
Spa jet body gasketMore often, a vessel leak can be traced to a bad jet or other shell fitting.  Jet bodies have a flexible gasket which is tightened against the underside surface of the spa shell.  These gaskets can sometimes shrink or decompose over time, resulting in water loss.  You may have to remove some of the shell's foam insulation to access these jet gaskets or other plastic fittings such as floor drains, suctions, etc.
Make sure the area is clean and smooth before installing a new component.  After installing and tightening a new jet body or other component, apply a generous layer of silicone sealant around the gasket perimeter and fiberglass undershell as an added measure of future leak protection.

How to fix water leaks from pipes

Posted at  2:37 PM - by maihoub ateya 2

How to fix water leaks from pipes


A) Disconnect all power to the spa. Inspect the equipment compartment. If leak is under the pump, this indicates a possible pump seal failure. If leak is detected, replace pump or install new seal, as appropriate.
B) Check all union fittings at hot tub pump and heater.  Unions can even vibrate loose on a brand new spa during shipment, and should be hand tightened if necessary.  If hand tightening is difficult, loosen pump mounting bolts, move components into alignment, then tighten unions and re-tighten pump mounting bolts.  Never use a wrench to tighten spa unions.
C) Next, inspect heater, pressure switch and surrounding components. Replace any defective parts as indicated by leak.  See Heater Testing
D) Inspect all of the valves. Repair or replace if leak is indicated. Knife style valves are sometimes bolted together and contain a gasket between the halves which can fail, particularly upon freezing or with prolonged poor water quality conditions.
Note: Valves on either side of the pump, when present, are installed at the factory as a convenience to service people (so that they do not have to drain the spa water to replace a pump).  In reality, these valves more often do more harm than good, since they are a common source of leaks.  Some hot tub owners choose to remove these valves if they have been a leak problem source.
E) Inspect all pipes, jets and connections for leakage. Repair or replace if indicated.

There is only one product that we have ever found that can reliably and permanently fix many leaky PVC components: Plast-Aid.  This product forms a molecular bond with the plastic which is stronger than the PVC pipe itself.  It is far superior to epoxy compounds.

Leak Detection
One method for locating leaks is to use dye (dark food color) in the water. This method works best if the leak is substantial. Observe location of dye leakage, using flashlight if needed, and proceed with repair.
Another method is to let the water drop (with spa not running) and then observe the water level of the spa when the level ceases to drop. If the water stops dropping at a jet for example, that jet is the likely leak source.

For faster leaks it may help to determine the type of leak: vessel leak (spa shell), suction-side leak (before pump) or pressure leak (after pump). Fill spa and mark the water level with grease pen or crayon, and allow the spa to run for 24 hours. Now mark the new water level to determine how much the water level has dropped. Refill to original mark, and keep system off for 24 hours. Again, note how far the water dropped. If the water dropped the same amount on both tests, this usually indicates a vessel leak (blisters and most surface cracks are usually only cosmetic, and not normally a cause for leaks). If the water dropped more with system running, this indicates a pressure leak. If the water dropped less with system running, this indicates a likely suction leak.
Fixing Leaky Pipe Connections the Easy Way
A common area of hot tub leaks occurs where PVC fittings (couplings, elbows, tees, etc.) connect to spa flex pipe. These repairs used to require cutting out the affected pipe, and replacing the PVC fittings. Our new Clip-on Pipe Leak Seals now make these repairs simple, inexpensive, and very effective. A repair job that previously took an hour or more, can now be completed in a few minutes at a fraction of the cost.

Simply clean and dry the affected area. Apply PVC primer to the Clip-on fitting. Then apply PVC cement to both surfaces, and snap in place while giving a quarter turn. These repair fittings are designed and sized to fit over the flex or rigid PVC pipe and fittings.
Clip-on Leak Seal for 1.5" Plumbing 
Clip-on Leak Seal for 2.0" Plumbing 
PVC Pro Cement Kit (this kit contains PVC cleaner, primer, and spa-grade cement)
Repairing Shell Cracks
Most so-called shell leaks are actually leaks associated with jets or other fittings, not the shell itself.  Today's hot tub shells are cast acrylic which has been vacuum formed and then reinforced on the underside with a thick layer of fiberglass.  It is extremely strong.  Even if the acrylic layer were to crack or blister, a water leak penetrating the fiberglass would be unusual.
Acrylic shell cracks and blister voids can be effectively filled and repaired with Plast-Aid.  This compound can even be colored with acrylic* artist paints (available at any art supply store) to approximate the original color of the spa shell.*do not use oil based colorants
Plast-Aid is a two part product (filler and hardener) that can be formed, sanded, and polished, and is the only effective compound available for permanent acrylic shell repairs that we have found. Unlike epoxy or fiberglass repair products, Plast-Aid forms a molecular bond with the acrylic shell.
Jet Body - Vessel Leaks
Spa jet body gasketMore often, a vessel leak can be traced to a bad jet or other shell fitting.  Jet bodies have a flexible gasket which is tightened against the underside surface of the spa shell.  These gaskets can sometimes shrink or decompose over time, resulting in water loss.  You may have to remove some of the shell's foam insulation to access these jet gaskets or other plastic fittings such as floor drains, suctions, etc.
Make sure the area is clean and smooth before installing a new component.  After installing and tightening a new jet body or other component, apply a generous layer of silicone sealant around the gasket perimeter and fiberglass undershell as an added measure of future leak protection.

2 التعليقات:

Monday, May 27, 2013



Maintain a Water Heater

Perform routine maintenance on your water heater every six months to insure proper functionality and prolonged use.

Planning

Both gas and electric water heaters have a safety device called a pressure relief valve. In the event the tank overpressurizes, the relief valve opens and releases the pressure. If the valve doesn't operate correctly, the tank can overpressurize and explode.
To check the pressure valve:
Step 1
Turn off the electricity to the water heater or turn the gas switch to pilot.

Step 2
Shut off the cold-water inlet to the water heater.

Step 3
Position the bucket to catch water from the pressure relief valve.

Step 4
Pull the trip lever on the valve. You should hear a slight rush of air or see some water and vapor exit through the pressure relief valve. If you don't, drain the tank and replace the valve.

Flush the Tank Every Six Months

Sediment buildup in the tank can reduce your water heater's energy efficiency and also clog your water lines. Avoid these problems, and increase the life of your unit by flushing the tank each time you check the pressure relief valve.
Following these simple maintenance procedures every six months will keep your water heater operating safely and efficiently for years.
To flush the tank:

Step 1
Turn off the electricity to the water heater or turn the gas switch to pilot.

Step 2
Shut off the cold-water inlet to the water heater.

Step 3
Connect a garden hose to the tank's drain valve.

Step 4
Locate the draining end of the hose in an area that won't be adversely affected by the scalding hot water.

Step 5
With the pressure relief valve open, open the drain valve and allow the tank to drain completely. Completely draining the tank ensures that you've removed all of the sediment possible.

Step 6
Close the tank drain valve, disconnect the hose from the valve and close the pressure relief valve.

Step 7
Open all the hot-water spigots in the house, and turn on the cold-water inlet to the tank.

Step 8
Close each hot-water spigot as water begins to flow from it. After all the spigots are closed, turn on the electricity to the water heater, or turn the gas switch to run.

Gas Water Heaters: Lighting the Pilot


Step 1
A newly installed gas water heater will have some air in the gas line. It may take several attempts to light the pilot. (Also, make sure the gas supply valve has been turned on).

Step 2
Whirlpool® gas water heaters feature an advanced gas valve with an LED (light-emitting diode) indicator. When the pilot light is lit and the unit is working normally, the red LED light will blink once every three seconds.

Step 3
The first time a gas water heater is started up, it'll produce condensation. You may hear dripping sounds or see a small puddle of water in the drain pan. Condensation is normal and will go away once the water heater has reached its normal operating temperature.

Electric Water Heaters: Before Connecting Electric Power


Step 1
The most common problem with electric water heaters is turning the power on before the tank is completely full of water. If this happens, the upper heating element will burn out, and you’ll have no hot water (until the upper element is replaced). Once you've installed the water heater, open a hot-water faucet all the way and let the hot water run for three minutes. This will ensure all of the air has been removed and the tank is completely full of water.

Step 2
If you don't have hot water after two hours, check to make sure the unit is getting the correct voltage. See the unit’s label for power requirements. No electric power or the wrong voltage causes many electric water heater problems. An electrician may be needed to solve wiring / power problems.

Leaks and Drips


Step 1
Most leaks are caused by faulty water supply connections. Use good materials and proper techniques and check your work carefully. Compression fittings are easier to use for DIYers (do-it-yourselfers) than soldering copper pipes.

Step 2
Drips from the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve discharge pipe usually mean a thermal expansion tank is needed.

How to Maintain a Water Heater - Water Heater Maintenance

Posted at  2:20 PM - by maihoub ateya 15



Maintain a Water Heater

Perform routine maintenance on your water heater every six months to insure proper functionality and prolonged use.

Planning

Both gas and electric water heaters have a safety device called a pressure relief valve. In the event the tank overpressurizes, the relief valve opens and releases the pressure. If the valve doesn't operate correctly, the tank can overpressurize and explode.
To check the pressure valve:
Step 1
Turn off the electricity to the water heater or turn the gas switch to pilot.

Step 2
Shut off the cold-water inlet to the water heater.

Step 3
Position the bucket to catch water from the pressure relief valve.

Step 4
Pull the trip lever on the valve. You should hear a slight rush of air or see some water and vapor exit through the pressure relief valve. If you don't, drain the tank and replace the valve.

Flush the Tank Every Six Months

Sediment buildup in the tank can reduce your water heater's energy efficiency and also clog your water lines. Avoid these problems, and increase the life of your unit by flushing the tank each time you check the pressure relief valve.
Following these simple maintenance procedures every six months will keep your water heater operating safely and efficiently for years.
To flush the tank:

Step 1
Turn off the electricity to the water heater or turn the gas switch to pilot.

Step 2
Shut off the cold-water inlet to the water heater.

Step 3
Connect a garden hose to the tank's drain valve.

Step 4
Locate the draining end of the hose in an area that won't be adversely affected by the scalding hot water.

Step 5
With the pressure relief valve open, open the drain valve and allow the tank to drain completely. Completely draining the tank ensures that you've removed all of the sediment possible.

Step 6
Close the tank drain valve, disconnect the hose from the valve and close the pressure relief valve.

Step 7
Open all the hot-water spigots in the house, and turn on the cold-water inlet to the tank.

Step 8
Close each hot-water spigot as water begins to flow from it. After all the spigots are closed, turn on the electricity to the water heater, or turn the gas switch to run.

Gas Water Heaters: Lighting the Pilot


Step 1
A newly installed gas water heater will have some air in the gas line. It may take several attempts to light the pilot. (Also, make sure the gas supply valve has been turned on).

Step 2
Whirlpool® gas water heaters feature an advanced gas valve with an LED (light-emitting diode) indicator. When the pilot light is lit and the unit is working normally, the red LED light will blink once every three seconds.

Step 3
The first time a gas water heater is started up, it'll produce condensation. You may hear dripping sounds or see a small puddle of water in the drain pan. Condensation is normal and will go away once the water heater has reached its normal operating temperature.

Electric Water Heaters: Before Connecting Electric Power


Step 1
The most common problem with electric water heaters is turning the power on before the tank is completely full of water. If this happens, the upper heating element will burn out, and you’ll have no hot water (until the upper element is replaced). Once you've installed the water heater, open a hot-water faucet all the way and let the hot water run for three minutes. This will ensure all of the air has been removed and the tank is completely full of water.

Step 2
If you don't have hot water after two hours, check to make sure the unit is getting the correct voltage. See the unit’s label for power requirements. No electric power or the wrong voltage causes many electric water heater problems. An electrician may be needed to solve wiring / power problems.

Leaks and Drips


Step 1
Most leaks are caused by faulty water supply connections. Use good materials and proper techniques and check your work carefully. Compression fittings are easier to use for DIYers (do-it-yourselfers) than soldering copper pipes.

Step 2
Drips from the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve discharge pipe usually mean a thermal expansion tank is needed.

15 التعليقات:

Thursday, May 23, 2013

The first problem:

cooker Blacks and any Dirty utensils
You should clean the burners regularly and preferably being developed in I E (water + vinegar + kirosen) then boiled and dried well
Note ........
If burners (burners of the wet Bay means Blacks pots so kept them dry
The second problem:
Ergonomics primers but not all burners?
At a fraction on Button primers (metal head)
Make sure of the quality of
if endowed head primers tested if Ergonomics and does not near screwdriver railing of head primers
Primers and press the ignition button will notice spark transmitted to the screwdriver and watch must
The separation stuck Screwdriver
Ok if the Cherz and the torch does not catch him what is the solution?

Set copper primers mode
If that does not work?
Keep the small piece of sanding and paw the front part of the head of the metal to ignite in primers and totally head  metal, primers

How do I maintain Gas Cooker

Posted at  4:07 PM - by maihoub ateya 0

The first problem:

cooker Blacks and any Dirty utensils
You should clean the burners regularly and preferably being developed in I E (water + vinegar + kirosen) then boiled and dried well
Note ........
If burners (burners of the wet Bay means Blacks pots so kept them dry
The second problem:
Ergonomics primers but not all burners?
At a fraction on Button primers (metal head)
Make sure of the quality of
if endowed head primers tested if Ergonomics and does not near screwdriver railing of head primers
Primers and press the ignition button will notice spark transmitted to the screwdriver and watch must
The separation stuck Screwdriver
Ok if the Cherz and the torch does not catch him what is the solution?

Set copper primers mode
If that does not work?
Keep the small piece of sanding and paw the front part of the head of the metal to ignite in primers and totally head  metal, primers

0 التعليقات:

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

How to replace a toilet seat


When a toilet seat is worn out it can make for uncomfortable use. When a toilet seat is broken though, it can be dangerous to sit on, so should be replaced immediately. Fortunately, changing a toilet seat is one of the easiest repair jobs you can do in a bathroom - and has the potential to add a whole new look to your toilet.

Replacing a toilet seat is almost as simple as unbolting it and then bolting another on in its place.

Buy a new toilet seat

The first step is to buy your new toilet seat. Since most toilets are rounded, you should have no problems finding one that fits and suits the rest of your bathroom, though if you have an elongated bowl, this may be a little trickier to do as you will need a different shaped seat. There are all sorts of different toilet seats available, so if you're feeling like a change of scenery this would be a very good opportunity to make a bit of a change!

Remove the old toilet seat

Next, check the nuts that hold your current seat in place. In most cases they are wing nuts which are easy to undo by hand, though you may need to apply some oil if the bolts are corroded. Older toilets may use regular nuts or worse, ones that are recessed. Use a wrench to undo them, or a deep socket wrench if a normal one won’t reach. Be careful here as with one slip of the wrench you may chip your toilet, or even completely break it!
If you still can’t reach the nuts, you’ll need to cut through them with a hacksaw. Put tape down on the bowl anywhere you think the blade is likely to rub against and again, exercise extreme caution when using metal tools around porcelain. Once the bolts are removed, clean the area thoroughly and dispose of the old toilet seat, along with the old bolts. Most new toilet seats will come with new nuts and bolts.

Attach the new toilet seat

Now, you should be free to mount the new seat. Match up the bolts with the holes and tighten the nuts. Be careful here not to over-tighten as you may want to remove the seat again someday. Check the lid and seat don’t wobble around when in any position, up or down, and adjust as necessary. Your new toilet seat is now ready to use.

How to replace a toilet seat

Posted at  11:54 AM - by maihoub ateya 0

How to replace a toilet seat


When a toilet seat is worn out it can make for uncomfortable use. When a toilet seat is broken though, it can be dangerous to sit on, so should be replaced immediately. Fortunately, changing a toilet seat is one of the easiest repair jobs you can do in a bathroom - and has the potential to add a whole new look to your toilet.

Replacing a toilet seat is almost as simple as unbolting it and then bolting another on in its place.

Buy a new toilet seat

The first step is to buy your new toilet seat. Since most toilets are rounded, you should have no problems finding one that fits and suits the rest of your bathroom, though if you have an elongated bowl, this may be a little trickier to do as you will need a different shaped seat. There are all sorts of different toilet seats available, so if you're feeling like a change of scenery this would be a very good opportunity to make a bit of a change!

Remove the old toilet seat

Next, check the nuts that hold your current seat in place. In most cases they are wing nuts which are easy to undo by hand, though you may need to apply some oil if the bolts are corroded. Older toilets may use regular nuts or worse, ones that are recessed. Use a wrench to undo them, or a deep socket wrench if a normal one won’t reach. Be careful here as with one slip of the wrench you may chip your toilet, or even completely break it!
If you still can’t reach the nuts, you’ll need to cut through them with a hacksaw. Put tape down on the bowl anywhere you think the blade is likely to rub against and again, exercise extreme caution when using metal tools around porcelain. Once the bolts are removed, clean the area thoroughly and dispose of the old toilet seat, along with the old bolts. Most new toilet seats will come with new nuts and bolts.

Attach the new toilet seat

Now, you should be free to mount the new seat. Match up the bolts with the holes and tighten the nuts. Be careful here not to over-tighten as you may want to remove the seat again someday. Check the lid and seat don’t wobble around when in any position, up or down, and adjust as necessary. Your new toilet seat is now ready to use.

0 التعليقات:

 how i do maintenance bathroom


Regular bathroom maintenance is an essential part of housekeeping. Over the long run, this will save you a considerable amount of money as well, because you can avoid problems related to plumbing, leaks, mold and mildew. Some easy, but important tips for regular bathroom maintenance are listed below.

1 – Ensure that the Grout and Sealant are Intact

The grout and sealant around the tiles over a bathtub or in a shower cubicle require frequent inspection. Due to the constant exposure to heat, humidity and moisture, the grout often wears off or cracks. Make sure that the grout is intact and free from mold or mildew. To clean mold, mildew or grout stains, use oxygen bleach. If you find any evidence of missing grout, you must clean the area, dry it and apply new grout.

2 – Look for Leaking Spouts or Pipes

Leaks around a pipe or spout must be remedied as soon as they are spotted. If left unattended, they could progressively become worse and cause problems such as moisture accumulation behind the walls and underneath the floor. Contact a plumber if you are unsure of the extent of the leak.

3 – Look for Signs of Leaks around the Bathtub and Toilet

The toilet and the bathtub must be securely caulked to the bathroom floor. Otherwise, these structures will leak water and cause problems later. Ensure that the toilet flush works properly and there are no signs of any blockages.

4 – Look for Signs of Rot or Decay

Do a regular examination of the floor, wall and corners of the bathroom. Look for signs of dampness, wetness or rot on the surfaces. Any such problems must be remedied professionally.

5 – Ensure that there are no Loose Tiles

If you have a shower enclosure, make sure the tiles are all in place and caulked properly. Also ensure that there are no signs of shifting tiles on the wall or the floor. If you see any such signs, remove the tiles and install new ones or reinstall the same tiles. Reapply the grout after removing any debris between the tiles.

6 – Inspect Underneath the Sink

Look underneath the sink to check for signs of leaks or moisture accumulation. Corroded pipes or cracks in the connections can cause leaks that can spread over to the wood under the counter. It can also damage the foundation. Replace any damaged pipes or connections promptly.

7 – Ensure that Drain Covers are in Place

Drain covers are an important defense mechanism because they block the flow of hair, dirt and other particles that can cause blocks in drains. If you notice that the flow of water has slowed down, clean the drain if necessary and clean the covering grill.

8 – Clean the Bathroom Every Week

Once a week, clean the bathtub or shower enclosure, toilet, wash basin, mirrors and the floor. While doing so, do a thorough inspection of all the nooks and corners. Wash the rugs before they accumulate too much dirt or moisture. Never leave moist clothes or rugs in the bathroom.

how i do maintenance bathroom

Posted at  11:53 AM - by maihoub ateya 0

 how i do maintenance bathroom


Regular bathroom maintenance is an essential part of housekeeping. Over the long run, this will save you a considerable amount of money as well, because you can avoid problems related to plumbing, leaks, mold and mildew. Some easy, but important tips for regular bathroom maintenance are listed below.

1 – Ensure that the Grout and Sealant are Intact

The grout and sealant around the tiles over a bathtub or in a shower cubicle require frequent inspection. Due to the constant exposure to heat, humidity and moisture, the grout often wears off or cracks. Make sure that the grout is intact and free from mold or mildew. To clean mold, mildew or grout stains, use oxygen bleach. If you find any evidence of missing grout, you must clean the area, dry it and apply new grout.

2 – Look for Leaking Spouts or Pipes

Leaks around a pipe or spout must be remedied as soon as they are spotted. If left unattended, they could progressively become worse and cause problems such as moisture accumulation behind the walls and underneath the floor. Contact a plumber if you are unsure of the extent of the leak.

3 – Look for Signs of Leaks around the Bathtub and Toilet

The toilet and the bathtub must be securely caulked to the bathroom floor. Otherwise, these structures will leak water and cause problems later. Ensure that the toilet flush works properly and there are no signs of any blockages.

4 – Look for Signs of Rot or Decay

Do a regular examination of the floor, wall and corners of the bathroom. Look for signs of dampness, wetness or rot on the surfaces. Any such problems must be remedied professionally.

5 – Ensure that there are no Loose Tiles

If you have a shower enclosure, make sure the tiles are all in place and caulked properly. Also ensure that there are no signs of shifting tiles on the wall or the floor. If you see any such signs, remove the tiles and install new ones or reinstall the same tiles. Reapply the grout after removing any debris between the tiles.

6 – Inspect Underneath the Sink

Look underneath the sink to check for signs of leaks or moisture accumulation. Corroded pipes or cracks in the connections can cause leaks that can spread over to the wood under the counter. It can also damage the foundation. Replace any damaged pipes or connections promptly.

7 – Ensure that Drain Covers are in Place

Drain covers are an important defense mechanism because they block the flow of hair, dirt and other particles that can cause blocks in drains. If you notice that the flow of water has slowed down, clean the drain if necessary and clean the covering grill.

8 – Clean the Bathroom Every Week

Once a week, clean the bathtub or shower enclosure, toilet, wash basin, mirrors and the floor. While doing so, do a thorough inspection of all the nooks and corners. Wash the rugs before they accumulate too much dirt or moisture. Never leave moist clothes or rugs in the bathroom.

0 التعليقات:

Refrigerator maintenance


Check thermostats:

1. Bring Thermostat refrigerator
2. Using Alawmmitr then examine the parties connected thermostats
3. If gave Alawmmitr the signal be Althemustat the conductor
4. Turn the cylinder of Freon, and open and shed on the root of coolant thermostats
5. Examine the ends of thermostats:
• If you gave the signal to be thermostats continued Atlan
• If you do not give a signal be thermostats separator (ergonomics)

Examination Rilah:

1. Using Alawmmitr then scans the parties L, M:
• If you do not give referring be Rilah to the Atlan and replaces
2. Using Alawmmitr then scans the parties L, S:
• In the normal position of the relay must not give a signal
• Turn Rilah and examine the parties to the case did not give referring be Rilah to the Atlan and replaces

Examination Alawvrlod:

1. Do bring Alawvrlod and preheat the metal plate and then inspect both sides Alawvrlod using Alawmmitr:
• in the event gave the signal have conductive Alawvrlod (Atlan)
• If you do not give a signal have separator Alawvrlod (ergonomics)
• In case cool Alawvrlod must be connected between terminal

examination Altaymr:

1. Place Altaymr on the workbench
2. Using Alawmmitr the Examine the four Altaymr parties (1.2.3.4) Note that the reading will be between 1.3 (ends Almattur)
3. In If gave Alawmmitr the read (7-8 kilo ohms almost) be Ergonomics time engine
4. Building on the type Altaymr and according to Figure 1 Line 1 is the protector and 3 line is the line (cold)
5. Move column Altaymr with scorpions Asahlahaddat تكات:
• in the event was much be in the rotation cycle of the compressor (connect between the dots 1.4)
• in the event hear التكة the rapidly be in cycle Aldefrost (connection between points 1.2)
6. When there is a full connection between the parties to be corrupted Altaymr
7. When there is no connection between the parties to be corrupted Altaymr

• Inspect propeller engine:

1. Place the evaporator fan on the workbench Figure 2
2. Parties arrived fan with Alawmmitr:
• When there reading means that the a propeller engine sound file
• When not having read the file is corrupted and replaced the fan
• When there is read and not rev it shows that the rotor damaged chairs and change the fan

Geyser examination:

1. Place the heater on the workbench
2. Using Alawmmitr the check between the parties to the heater.
3. In If gave Alawmmitr the read be Geyser Ergonomics (each heater gives resistance reading by type and capacity)
4. When there is no connection between the parties to be Geyser Geyser Atlan

• check Thermostat Aldefrost:

1. Place Thermostat Aldefrost on the workbench
2. Arrived ends of Albaamaitl with Alawmmitr:
• When a read be Albaamaitl the Atlan and replaces بىخر the same type
3. Using r-12 cylinder, RIKEN Albaamaitl the so delights
4. Arrived ends of Albaamaitl with Alawmmitr:
• When there read means that Albaamaitl is the sound
• When there is no reading be Albaamaitl the interval and replaced by another of the same type



1. Bring the compressor and open the tray electrical connections
2. No. Parties compressor numbers 1 2 3
3. Using Alawmmitr select the amount of resistance between the parties 1 +2.1 +3.2 +3.
4. Extrapolation of the results, we find that:
• greater resistance to be between R + S
• smaller resistance is among the R + C
• Central resistance is among the S + C
• Number of joint between the largest and smallest of the party resistance R
• After selecting the party R is the second number in the largest party is resistant S
• Automatically be the third number is the party C

5. Reached an electrical circuit for the initial operation of the compressor as shown in Figure 1
6. Press the bell for 1 second and record the following observations:
• In the absence of rotation of the compressor within 10 seconds, it shows the Calendar files for combustion compressor
• If the compressor house but does not continue to spin after the lifting of the pressure on the key bell, it shows that the rotation of the compressor files corrupted
• If the compressor rotation and continue to rotate the compressor sound

Test vent for the cooling circuit in the refrigerator regular

1. Lift Fish refrigerator from the power source
2. Cut the charging and discharging pipe on the compressor so that it evades the gas slowly
3. Install the service valve by welding (silver alloy) and then rode in nitrogen hose wrap service
4. Increase pressure nitrogen gas circuit even dry up to 200 lb / inch 2
5. Welded Joints vent tested in the circuit using a lather
6. If soap bubbles appeared place links, this indicates the presence of vent
7. In the event of a vent, located venting then escapes nitrogen and welded the place in a good way and then re-test venting again by the first method

How do I maintain and fix Refrigerator

Posted at  11:50 AM - by maihoub ateya 0

Refrigerator maintenance


Check thermostats:

1. Bring Thermostat refrigerator
2. Using Alawmmitr then examine the parties connected thermostats
3. If gave Alawmmitr the signal be Althemustat the conductor
4. Turn the cylinder of Freon, and open and shed on the root of coolant thermostats
5. Examine the ends of thermostats:
• If you gave the signal to be thermostats continued Atlan
• If you do not give a signal be thermostats separator (ergonomics)

Examination Rilah:

1. Using Alawmmitr then scans the parties L, M:
• If you do not give referring be Rilah to the Atlan and replaces
2. Using Alawmmitr then scans the parties L, S:
• In the normal position of the relay must not give a signal
• Turn Rilah and examine the parties to the case did not give referring be Rilah to the Atlan and replaces

Examination Alawvrlod:

1. Do bring Alawvrlod and preheat the metal plate and then inspect both sides Alawvrlod using Alawmmitr:
• in the event gave the signal have conductive Alawvrlod (Atlan)
• If you do not give a signal have separator Alawvrlod (ergonomics)
• In case cool Alawvrlod must be connected between terminal

examination Altaymr:

1. Place Altaymr on the workbench
2. Using Alawmmitr the Examine the four Altaymr parties (1.2.3.4) Note that the reading will be between 1.3 (ends Almattur)
3. In If gave Alawmmitr the read (7-8 kilo ohms almost) be Ergonomics time engine
4. Building on the type Altaymr and according to Figure 1 Line 1 is the protector and 3 line is the line (cold)
5. Move column Altaymr with scorpions Asahlahaddat تكات:
• in the event was much be in the rotation cycle of the compressor (connect between the dots 1.4)
• in the event hear التكة the rapidly be in cycle Aldefrost (connection between points 1.2)
6. When there is a full connection between the parties to be corrupted Altaymr
7. When there is no connection between the parties to be corrupted Altaymr

• Inspect propeller engine:

1. Place the evaporator fan on the workbench Figure 2
2. Parties arrived fan with Alawmmitr:
• When there reading means that the a propeller engine sound file
• When not having read the file is corrupted and replaced the fan
• When there is read and not rev it shows that the rotor damaged chairs and change the fan

Geyser examination:

1. Place the heater on the workbench
2. Using Alawmmitr the check between the parties to the heater.
3. In If gave Alawmmitr the read be Geyser Ergonomics (each heater gives resistance reading by type and capacity)
4. When there is no connection between the parties to be Geyser Geyser Atlan

• check Thermostat Aldefrost:

1. Place Thermostat Aldefrost on the workbench
2. Arrived ends of Albaamaitl with Alawmmitr:
• When a read be Albaamaitl the Atlan and replaces بىخر the same type
3. Using r-12 cylinder, RIKEN Albaamaitl the so delights
4. Arrived ends of Albaamaitl with Alawmmitr:
• When there read means that Albaamaitl is the sound
• When there is no reading be Albaamaitl the interval and replaced by another of the same type



1. Bring the compressor and open the tray electrical connections
2. No. Parties compressor numbers 1 2 3
3. Using Alawmmitr select the amount of resistance between the parties 1 +2.1 +3.2 +3.
4. Extrapolation of the results, we find that:
• greater resistance to be between R + S
• smaller resistance is among the R + C
• Central resistance is among the S + C
• Number of joint between the largest and smallest of the party resistance R
• After selecting the party R is the second number in the largest party is resistant S
• Automatically be the third number is the party C

5. Reached an electrical circuit for the initial operation of the compressor as shown in Figure 1
6. Press the bell for 1 second and record the following observations:
• In the absence of rotation of the compressor within 10 seconds, it shows the Calendar files for combustion compressor
• If the compressor house but does not continue to spin after the lifting of the pressure on the key bell, it shows that the rotation of the compressor files corrupted
• If the compressor rotation and continue to rotate the compressor sound

Test vent for the cooling circuit in the refrigerator regular

1. Lift Fish refrigerator from the power source
2. Cut the charging and discharging pipe on the compressor so that it evades the gas slowly
3. Install the service valve by welding (silver alloy) and then rode in nitrogen hose wrap service
4. Increase pressure nitrogen gas circuit even dry up to 200 lb / inch 2
5. Welded Joints vent tested in the circuit using a lather
6. If soap bubbles appeared place links, this indicates the presence of vent
7. In the event of a vent, located venting then escapes nitrogen and welded the place in a good way and then re-test venting again by the first method

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 Refrigerator breakdowns and ways to fix it

Refrigerators exposed to a lot of problems and faults and because the presence of the refrigerator is indispensable for any home of homes, especially in the summer and that the refrigerators of the multiple functions and very important to this dealt with in this article some of the faults that may be exposed to the icebox

1 - some faults may occur in the refrigerator because of a cut in the wire which reach Altaymr the
May be a problem only in cutting Balslak or may be Altaymr the need to change and are discovered through a test run after changing the wires and we will discover if there McCann problem in Altaymr that or not

2 - there is no damage in key Cab leading to the high temperature of the cab or fall dramatically and are being treated by changing the key and a test of experimentation

3 - there has been some damage in the thermostat, which leads to the high temperature of the freezer and this happens for several reasons, may be the freezer bulb lit continuously or be a fan freezer there is damaged or corrupted in the heater etc.

The validity is tested and check thermostat bulb key and also check the heater or fan and other Change the damaged ČÇÎŃ New

4 - the accumulation of water inside the freezer
We do screening for the propeller and engine repair faults that do and perform proficiency testing beyond.

Refrigerator breakdowns and ways to fix it

Posted at  11:11 AM - by maihoub ateya 0

 Refrigerator breakdowns and ways to fix it

Refrigerators exposed to a lot of problems and faults and because the presence of the refrigerator is indispensable for any home of homes, especially in the summer and that the refrigerators of the multiple functions and very important to this dealt with in this article some of the faults that may be exposed to the icebox

1 - some faults may occur in the refrigerator because of a cut in the wire which reach Altaymr the
May be a problem only in cutting Balslak or may be Altaymr the need to change and are discovered through a test run after changing the wires and we will discover if there McCann problem in Altaymr that or not

2 - there is no damage in key Cab leading to the high temperature of the cab or fall dramatically and are being treated by changing the key and a test of experimentation

3 - there has been some damage in the thermostat, which leads to the high temperature of the freezer and this happens for several reasons, may be the freezer bulb lit continuously or be a fan freezer there is damaged or corrupted in the heater etc.

The validity is tested and check thermostat bulb key and also check the heater or fan and other Change the damaged ČÇÎŃ New

4 - the accumulation of water inside the freezer
We do screening for the propeller and engine repair faults that do and perform proficiency testing beyond.

0 التعليقات:

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Maintenance Taps Plumbing home
We all have our house within inclusions Nutrition Network and Drainage (plumbing) taps may be inside the house or in the garden and prevent leakage of water out and their need for maintenance will inevitably occur in this article we will see how we can make maintenance of the taps different types ourselves without the need for help from a technician Sanitary Wares (Plumber).
The first thing that draws attention is the occurrence of leakage of water from the faucets and these are the first things in the home maintenance as it is frequent and do not require expensive special expertise, as to accelerate the reform provides a lot of water and you should not wait until the problem does not worsen.
The general rule when doing any maintenance work or combinations of the network nutrition and sanitation is that we lock valve public of the apartment before the start of work and there are at least two common types for taps in terms of the external shape, they can either be hand-wing (or hoop) or however Kabshah (cover).

The method differs jaw and installation of two types where necessary decoder hand Alkbashh in the second type is done either to lift the lid by hand or using screwdriver.

After lifting the lid is decoded nail install Alkbashh using the appropriate screwdriver by type of screw head

Maintenance Taps Plumbing home

Posted at  1:42 PM - by maihoub ateya 0

Maintenance Taps Plumbing home
We all have our house within inclusions Nutrition Network and Drainage (plumbing) taps may be inside the house or in the garden and prevent leakage of water out and their need for maintenance will inevitably occur in this article we will see how we can make maintenance of the taps different types ourselves without the need for help from a technician Sanitary Wares (Plumber).
The first thing that draws attention is the occurrence of leakage of water from the faucets and these are the first things in the home maintenance as it is frequent and do not require expensive special expertise, as to accelerate the reform provides a lot of water and you should not wait until the problem does not worsen.
The general rule when doing any maintenance work or combinations of the network nutrition and sanitation is that we lock valve public of the apartment before the start of work and there are at least two common types for taps in terms of the external shape, they can either be hand-wing (or hoop) or however Kabshah (cover).

The method differs jaw and installation of two types where necessary decoder hand Alkbashh in the second type is done either to lift the lid by hand or using screwdriver.

After lifting the lid is decoded nail install Alkbashh using the appropriate screwdriver by type of screw head

0 التعليقات:

 What Type of Flooring is Best for a Bathroom
Whether you are renovating an old bathroom or building a new one, knowing what type of flooring is best for a bathroom is very important. After bathroom fittings and hardware, the flooring of a bathroom is one of the most important aspects while renovating a bathroom. In this article we are going to discuss some good bathroom flooring options.

One of the most important component while renovating a bathroom is its flooring. Although there are various types of flooring options for a bathroom, you need to make sure that the bathroom flooring you choose is safe, aesthetically appealing and is low maintenance. It should also be slip and stain resistant and should be completely waterproof. Ceramic tiles and vinyl flooring has been the most popular options for bathroom flooring, but nowadays flooring options like stone and limestone are also quite the rage. Another important factor that you need to consider while selecting bathroom flooring is the price and durability.

Best Types of Flooring for a Bathroom

While selecting bathroom flooring, you should not just focus on the pattern and design of the flooring. Although flooring patterns and styles are important, you need to first focus on the attributes and advantages of a particular bathroom flooring option. Given below are some good bathroom flooring options that you can choose from.

Ceramic Tiles
A good choice in bathroom flooring is ceramic tiles. Installing ceramic tiles in bathrooms is a good choice since ceramic tiles are extremely durable, water-resistant, stain proof and scratch proof. It does not require too much upkeep and regular cleaning can make such flooring last for a long time. The best thing about ceramic tiles is that they are easy to install and are available in a wide variety of patterns and designs, shapes and sizes. This makes it easy for a homeowner to choose a pattern of ceramic tile that matches the bathroom décor. Ceramic tiles are low-cost as well and is therefore ideal for people who are renovating their bathroom on a budget. 

Stone Flooring
One of the best bathroom flooring options that you can choose is to install a stone flooring. Stone flooring is durable, low maintenance and gives the bathroom a very grand and luxurious look. Although most people tend to choose stones like marble and granite for flooring, it is not a very viable option because marble is highly porous which makes it prone to staining. Moreover such stones tend to be slippery which is a matter of concern. The best stone flooring for a bathroom is maturely textured stones like slate and travertine. Many home improvement stores have textured slate tile flooring that are just right for a bathroom. Another advantage of installing stone flooring is that it gives the bathroom a very earthy and natural ambiance.

Vinyl Flooring
Another good flooring for bathrooms is vinyl flooring. Vinyl flooring is available both in the form of sheet and tiles. They are water resistant and therefore works well for the bathroom. Vinyl flooring is available in a wide variety of finishes, colors, patterns and textures. The only disadvantage of vinyl flooring is that it is a soft material and therefore prone to scratches and tearing.

Glass Tiles
A popular flooring material for a bathroom is glass tiles. Glass tiles give the bathroom a very beautiful appearance and an airy feeling that is hard to replicate with any other type of flooring. It is water resistant and stain resistant and are available in 1 or 2 inch tiles. Glass tiles are also available in a variety of designs and colors. You can also choose to have a mosaic glass tile flooring in your bathroom. Installing glass tiles is a bit tricky, so it is best left to the pros. Since glass tiles gives the bathroom an airy and spacious look, it is an ideal flooring option to choose for a small bathroom.

Concrete Flooring
A low-cost option for bathroom flooring is concrete. Concrete flooring is incredibly durable and all you need to do is to apply a proper sealant after it is installed. Many people consider concrete flooring unattractive, but by staining or painting over it, concrete can look quite good. You can even get a textured concrete flooring for your bathroom. Concrete is stain resistant, slip resistant and waterproof. 

Choosing bathroom flooring from so many options might seem confusing. Select a bathroom flooring that is durable and visually attractive and which is affordable to you. Now that you know what kind of flooring is best for a bathroom, you can choose the best flooring for your home.

What Type of Flooring is Best for a Bathroom

Posted at  11:45 AM - by maihoub ateya 0

 What Type of Flooring is Best for a Bathroom
Whether you are renovating an old bathroom or building a new one, knowing what type of flooring is best for a bathroom is very important. After bathroom fittings and hardware, the flooring of a bathroom is one of the most important aspects while renovating a bathroom. In this article we are going to discuss some good bathroom flooring options.

One of the most important component while renovating a bathroom is its flooring. Although there are various types of flooring options for a bathroom, you need to make sure that the bathroom flooring you choose is safe, aesthetically appealing and is low maintenance. It should also be slip and stain resistant and should be completely waterproof. Ceramic tiles and vinyl flooring has been the most popular options for bathroom flooring, but nowadays flooring options like stone and limestone are also quite the rage. Another important factor that you need to consider while selecting bathroom flooring is the price and durability.

Best Types of Flooring for a Bathroom

While selecting bathroom flooring, you should not just focus on the pattern and design of the flooring. Although flooring patterns and styles are important, you need to first focus on the attributes and advantages of a particular bathroom flooring option. Given below are some good bathroom flooring options that you can choose from.

Ceramic Tiles
A good choice in bathroom flooring is ceramic tiles. Installing ceramic tiles in bathrooms is a good choice since ceramic tiles are extremely durable, water-resistant, stain proof and scratch proof. It does not require too much upkeep and regular cleaning can make such flooring last for a long time. The best thing about ceramic tiles is that they are easy to install and are available in a wide variety of patterns and designs, shapes and sizes. This makes it easy for a homeowner to choose a pattern of ceramic tile that matches the bathroom décor. Ceramic tiles are low-cost as well and is therefore ideal for people who are renovating their bathroom on a budget. 

Stone Flooring
One of the best bathroom flooring options that you can choose is to install a stone flooring. Stone flooring is durable, low maintenance and gives the bathroom a very grand and luxurious look. Although most people tend to choose stones like marble and granite for flooring, it is not a very viable option because marble is highly porous which makes it prone to staining. Moreover such stones tend to be slippery which is a matter of concern. The best stone flooring for a bathroom is maturely textured stones like slate and travertine. Many home improvement stores have textured slate tile flooring that are just right for a bathroom. Another advantage of installing stone flooring is that it gives the bathroom a very earthy and natural ambiance.

Vinyl Flooring
Another good flooring for bathrooms is vinyl flooring. Vinyl flooring is available both in the form of sheet and tiles. They are water resistant and therefore works well for the bathroom. Vinyl flooring is available in a wide variety of finishes, colors, patterns and textures. The only disadvantage of vinyl flooring is that it is a soft material and therefore prone to scratches and tearing.

Glass Tiles
A popular flooring material for a bathroom is glass tiles. Glass tiles give the bathroom a very beautiful appearance and an airy feeling that is hard to replicate with any other type of flooring. It is water resistant and stain resistant and are available in 1 or 2 inch tiles. Glass tiles are also available in a variety of designs and colors. You can also choose to have a mosaic glass tile flooring in your bathroom. Installing glass tiles is a bit tricky, so it is best left to the pros. Since glass tiles gives the bathroom an airy and spacious look, it is an ideal flooring option to choose for a small bathroom.

Concrete Flooring
A low-cost option for bathroom flooring is concrete. Concrete flooring is incredibly durable and all you need to do is to apply a proper sealant after it is installed. Many people consider concrete flooring unattractive, but by staining or painting over it, concrete can look quite good. You can even get a textured concrete flooring for your bathroom. Concrete is stain resistant, slip resistant and waterproof. 

Choosing bathroom flooring from so many options might seem confusing. Select a bathroom flooring that is durable and visually attractive and which is affordable to you. Now that you know what kind of flooring is best for a bathroom, you can choose the best flooring for your home.

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Bathrooms usually have more than one plumbing fixture, and it’s inconvenient and expensive to run individual drain lines from each fixture to the house’s main sewer line. Instead, plumbers connect drain lines in the floor beneath the bathroom and install a common vent that allows water and waste to drain without forming an airlock. The toilet has the largest drainpipe, so the sink drain, which is smaller in diameter, will empty into the toilet drain line.

The Toilet Drain

1-Connect a 3-inch PVC closet bend to the bottom of the toilet flange located in the floor where the toilet will sit. A closet bend is sweeping 90-degree elbow that connects the flange to a 3-inch drainpipe that runs between the floor joists. There is no need to install a trap beneath the toilet because toilets have built-in traps.

2-Attach the open end of the closet bend to a horizontal 3-inch drainpipe. The drainpipe runs horizontally only until it can descend to connect with the house’s main sewer line. The pipe is not perfectly horizontal; it should slope at the approximate rate of 1/4 inch per lineal foot. More slope is not necessarily better since liquid can outrun waste, leaving it stuck in the drainpipe.

3-Apply PVC prep liquid and PVC adhesive, as directed on each product’s label, when connecting PVC pipes and fittings that are not threaded.

The Sink Drain

1-Attach a 2-inch sink trap assembly to the bottom of the drain stub that extends from beneath the sink. This is a threaded connection, and the trap should come with two washers, one on each end that slip over the connecting pipes and tighten. Do not glue these connections.

2-Connect a horizontal PVC pipe to the bottom end of the trap assembly. This pipe should be long enough to reach the stud space in the wall behind the sink where it will attach to another 2-inch vertical pipe.

3-Install a 2-inch sanitary-T fitting in the stud space to connect the horizontal sink drainpipe to a vertical drainpipe. The vertical drainpipe serves two purposes; water drains downward, and the upper portion of the pipe ties into the house’s main vent stack. Without the upper vent portion of the pipe, water locks can form in the drain system. The sink vent serves both the sink and the toilet.

4-Run the lower sink drainpipe, adding elbows or collar connections as needed to reach the 3-inch drainpipe that runs from the toilet. The configuration depends upon your bathroom layout and the direction of the floor joists, but connect the sink drain to the toilet drain within 6 feet of the toilet, if possible.

The Connection

1-Connect the sink drainpipe to the toilet drainpipe using a 2-inch-to-3-inch sweeping-Y connector. The sink drain should enter the toilet drain from above, and the 2-inch opening for the sink drain should extend upward from the 3-inch horizontal drainpipe to prevent backflow issues.

2-Cut a section out of the 3-inch drainpipe when tying in the 2-inch sink drain and use the PVC prep liquid and PVC glue to hold the connections securely.

3-Cap the end of the 3-inch drainpipe before attaching it to the main sewer line, flush the toilet and fill the lines with water to test the pipe connections. This is the best time to discover if a connection leaks.

Bathrooms usually have more than one plumbing fixture, and it’s inconvenient and

Posted at  11:43 AM - by maihoub ateya 0

Bathrooms usually have more than one plumbing fixture, and it’s inconvenient and expensive to run individual drain lines from each fixture to the house’s main sewer line. Instead, plumbers connect drain lines in the floor beneath the bathroom and install a common vent that allows water and waste to drain without forming an airlock. The toilet has the largest drainpipe, so the sink drain, which is smaller in diameter, will empty into the toilet drain line.

The Toilet Drain

1-Connect a 3-inch PVC closet bend to the bottom of the toilet flange located in the floor where the toilet will sit. A closet bend is sweeping 90-degree elbow that connects the flange to a 3-inch drainpipe that runs between the floor joists. There is no need to install a trap beneath the toilet because toilets have built-in traps.

2-Attach the open end of the closet bend to a horizontal 3-inch drainpipe. The drainpipe runs horizontally only until it can descend to connect with the house’s main sewer line. The pipe is not perfectly horizontal; it should slope at the approximate rate of 1/4 inch per lineal foot. More slope is not necessarily better since liquid can outrun waste, leaving it stuck in the drainpipe.

3-Apply PVC prep liquid and PVC adhesive, as directed on each product’s label, when connecting PVC pipes and fittings that are not threaded.

The Sink Drain

1-Attach a 2-inch sink trap assembly to the bottom of the drain stub that extends from beneath the sink. This is a threaded connection, and the trap should come with two washers, one on each end that slip over the connecting pipes and tighten. Do not glue these connections.

2-Connect a horizontal PVC pipe to the bottom end of the trap assembly. This pipe should be long enough to reach the stud space in the wall behind the sink where it will attach to another 2-inch vertical pipe.

3-Install a 2-inch sanitary-T fitting in the stud space to connect the horizontal sink drainpipe to a vertical drainpipe. The vertical drainpipe serves two purposes; water drains downward, and the upper portion of the pipe ties into the house’s main vent stack. Without the upper vent portion of the pipe, water locks can form in the drain system. The sink vent serves both the sink and the toilet.

4-Run the lower sink drainpipe, adding elbows or collar connections as needed to reach the 3-inch drainpipe that runs from the toilet. The configuration depends upon your bathroom layout and the direction of the floor joists, but connect the sink drain to the toilet drain within 6 feet of the toilet, if possible.

The Connection

1-Connect the sink drainpipe to the toilet drainpipe using a 2-inch-to-3-inch sweeping-Y connector. The sink drain should enter the toilet drain from above, and the 2-inch opening for the sink drain should extend upward from the 3-inch horizontal drainpipe to prevent backflow issues.

2-Cut a section out of the 3-inch drainpipe when tying in the 2-inch sink drain and use the PVC prep liquid and PVC glue to hold the connections securely.

3-Cap the end of the 3-inch drainpipe before attaching it to the main sewer line, flush the toilet and fill the lines with water to test the pipe connections. This is the best time to discover if a connection leaks.

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